“Mid-1970s Ankara was a grim place. At times the air was so polluted you had to wear a mask, there were long queues for basic necessities, and political strife had become so common, our favorite game as children was “communists versus fascists.” Still there was room for magic. Going to Youth Park on a weekend for a ride on the roller coaster or eating ice cream at the city’s foremost recreation area was a special treat. I adored the two mascots of the city, the Ankara goat that produces the soft wool Angora and the Ankara cat, famous for its long, silky fur and blue eyes.”
Five years ago this weekend, I was browsing these gorgeous fava beans and artichokes at a produce market in Ankara. Cool to look back through my Flickr archives and rediscover what I was doing on the same date years ago./p
As you may know, Istanbul is the Europe Capital of Culture for 2010. Istanbul has been prepping for this year for quite some time, readying the city for an influx of new tourists to sights like the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the Grand Bazaar.
While I’m not heading back to Istanbul any time soon (unfortunately), I do have this wonderful city on the brain a lot. I like to think about what I would do if I had a chance to go back for a weekend and about all the enjoyable things I did there when I used to visit from Ankara. So I’ve come up with a top six list of things that I think others should do when visiting this Capital of Culture. This is not straight from any guidebook; it’s a highly subjective list of things that transport me back to this magical metropolis on the Bosphorus. But first-time travelers take note: several of my suggestions are in Sultanahmet, the district close to most of the city’s big attractions.
Wake Up to the Ezan (Call to Prayer)
Waking up to morning prayer in Istanbul is easily done, as there are mosques all over the city, each with their own muezzin and loud speaker. Some non-Muslim travelers may find the constant call to prayer annoying and even discombobulating when it comes in the middle of a nice snooze. It also may come as a surprise to some travelers to hear the ezan in Turkey, a supposedly secular country. But this is one of those things that makes Turkey Turkey and especially provides the proper mood to a visit to Istanbul.
I highly recommend waking to the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) call to prayer. This is the main mosque in Istanbul and has a muezzin with a mesmerizing voice. This photo, by the way, was taken from the penthouse of the Alzer Hotel, located directly across the Hippodrome from the Blue Mosque. I was fortunate enough to stay in this room only once (unexpected upgrade!) and its view was incredible, as you can see. It also has a great rooftop breakfast, by the way. But dozens of other hotels in the vicinity will put you within earshot of the Blue Mosque.
To learn more about the call to prayer, check out this great guide from Turkey Travel Planner.
Eat at Sultanahmet Köfteçisi
So you think you don’t like broiled lamb meatballs? I didn’t think I did either until I went to the original Sultanahmet Köfteçisi in Istanbul. Even though it’s only a few paces from tourist central, this 90-year-old establishment still has a local feel. There’s a nice, brisk, lunch counter feel to this branch, too. Maybe that’s because there’s no menu. You can order köfte, which comes with a side of grilled peppers (sometimes very spicy!) and, for an appetizer, there’s the mixed green salad or the traditional white bean salad with onions topped with olive oil and lemon juice. Pretty simple. Pretty delicious. If you do any more traveling around Turkey, you’ll inevitably see the chain restaurant of the same name. But know that this is the original and best. I dream about these little treats, and I don’t even really like meat all that much.
Spend Time Around the Galata Bridge
Before going to Turkey, I had no idea how crazy the country was about fish and fishing. The more I thought about it, though, it made sense: Turkey is bordered on three sides by two seas – the Black Sea and the Mediterranean (known in Turkish as Akdeniz, the White Sea). The angling craze especially makes sense in Istanbul, which is practically an seafaring city bobbing around in the Bosphorus Strait. To go almost anywhere in Istanbul, you need to take a ferry or cross a bridge. And a great bridge to spend time on is the Galata Bridge, which connects the Eminönü and Beyo?lu (Galata) districts across a narrow waterway known as the Golden Horn (Haliç). Legend has it that the Golden Horn is where all the Constantinopolites dumped their gold and valuable possessions in the 15th century when it was clear that they were going to be conquered by invading Ottomans (the army of Mehmed II, to be precise). I can’t help but think that all the fishermen that line both sides of the Galata Bridge will one day pull up a dazzling diamond encrusted necklace or glass slipper from the deep waters below. So it’s fun to watch them.
It’s also fun to watch the anglers because they actually do catch fish. Rarely is it anything very big. Usually just istravit (a small mackerel). But there’s always such a happy, familial vibe among the fishermen. Another great thing about the Galata Bridge is you can find street vendors on either end of it (and restaurants underneath it) selling delectable fried fish sandwiches. As with the Sultanahmet köfte, a trip to Istanbul isn’t the same without it. So bring your appetite.
Stroll Up and Down Istiklal Caddesi
The labyrinth of the Grand Bazaar is tempting and definitely worth visiting on your first or fifteenth time to Istanbul. But I prefer hanging with the Istanbulites on Istiklal Caddesi. This long, mostly pedestrian street has the cool cafes, quick bite delis, gorgeous boutiques, chain stores, coffee houses, raki houses, and flower stalls and it’s also the area you’ll find most of the European embassies and Istanbul’s hidden churches (check out the utterly lovely Armenian Church (on a narrow side street off of Istiklal – near some yummy fish restaurants) and the San Antonio di Padova Church). There’s always something going on on Istiklal, ranging from a political rally that has spilled over from nearby Taksim Square or just street troubadors playing music. Walk down Istiklal and you’ll feel like you’re part of the very vibrant city that is modern Istanbul. And, yes – there are good eats and great shopping in these parts.
Hang Out by the Bosphorus
I love watching the locals on the Galata Bridge but I really love hanging with the locals in the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge, that mammoth feat of engineering that connects Europe to Asia. There are several spots to get down close to the Bosphorus for good views of the bridge as well as the giant cargo ships, cruise ships, and tourist ferries that come and go on this waterway. The most obvious of these spots is in a cute neighborhood called Ortaköy, where there are tons of tea houses. And you’ll want to order up a tea (çay), too. Tea has never tasted so good as when it’s delivered piping hot in a tulip-shaped glass.
Get Out of Town – Go to Prince’s Island
Take it from me: leaving Istanbul will make you love it more. And what better place to leave Istanbul for than Prince’s Island, also known as Büyükada (Big Island)? If the pace of life of Istanbul is too much for you, then the Prince’s Island – which is car-free – is the antidote. Daytrippers typically pull into port (after an exhausting, and usually hot, 45-minute ferry ride) and head straight for the horse and buggy depot, where you can purchase a quiet, horse-drawn trip around the island. It’s pretty relaxing – for the humans anyway – and you get to admire some of the gorgeous Ottoman-style country houses that the island is known for. Not surprisingly, many of Istanbul’s elite, including Orhan Pamuk, have houses on the island and there are even a few hotels tucked into the hillsides, most of which charge a pretty penny for a night’s stay or an afternoon lunch.
I regret I’ve only spent one day on Prince’s Island. But it certainly left me wanting more, as did Istanbul. What I’d give to be sipping in Istanbul’s sea air right now.
I’ve been tagged by Robin Locker at My Mélange to provide my three best travel secrets. She actually tagged me on my Italofile.com site. But I had so many good secrets beyond Italy that I wanted to share my top three non-Italy secrets here. To see the Italy list, head over to Italofile. Have a look at both of them!
Of course, it’s not fair to really call these “secrets,” as there are plenty of other people who have gone before me and recommended the same places. So, just consider these as my current favorites among a bucket-load of tips.
Three Best Travel Secrets
Lycian Coast, Turkey
The Lycian Coast of Turkey is awash in tourists, especially from Europe and particularly from the U.K. But Turkey, in general, has yet to take off as a destination for Americans, which is why I’m including it on my list. This ancient coast is the Mediterranean of my dreams, with dramatic cliff-framed beaches (the beach above is Kaputa? Beach) and ruins from ancient Greeks, Romans, and Lycians (an ancient tribe particular to this region) strewn about. In the off-season, from about October to April when it’s not blazing hot, you can hike the Lycian Way, a 500km trail from Fethiye to Antalya. For a beach holiday, consider staying in Ka? which has a lively, walkable downtown with bars, fish and meze restaurants, and organic textile boutiques.
One of the most memorable trips I’ve ever taken was aboard a houseboat, adrift in the backwaters of Kerala, one of India’s most southernmost states. I wrote about my backwater trip at length way back in 2004 and, re-reading my posts from that time still give me blissful memories. If you are fortunate to go to India and have time to make it to the south, do not miss the opportunity to ride aboard a kettuvalam (rice boat). I’m sure that with 3G networks these days, you can take this trip without unplugging from your phone and internet. But here is a chance to disconnect completely, with only books and scheduled meals to interrupt your quiet contemplation.
When I started writing this list, I didn’t intend to have all beachy destinations. But so be it. Apalachicola is yet another place I have written about on this blog in a two-parter titled Long Weekend in Apalachicola Part 1 and Part 2. If you read those posts, you’ll see that this lazy beach town gets me back to my southern roots. Apalachicola is also part of what’s called Florida’s “Forgotten Coast” because it’s largely undeveloped, in that it is lacking in the over-the-top, on-the-beach high-rise resorts that characterize much of Florida’s shoreline. Apalachicola is also the Oyster Capital of the United States, so you can get the fattest, freshest oysters here, either on the half-shell or fried up for a po-boy.
So there’s my non-Italy list. I’m not going to tag a whole bunch of people like I did for my Italy list, but I will give props to Katie at Tripbase, who started this whole meme. It’s been fun!
If you’ve enjoyed reading my tips and decide you want to dream up your own list, tag me. I’d love to read what others have to say.
Photos © Melanie Mize Renzulli
I must apologize for the long delay in writing. But, I have been up to big things. First of all, I have been concentrating on my writing and my other blog Italofile.com. I am using Italofile as a way to explore the Italy travel landscape beyond the pages of my books The Unofficial Guide to Central Italy and Michelin’s Green Guide Tuscany. Indeed, Italofile covers all of Italy. So, please have a look.
We are still in Turkey and loving it. While Ankara may not be the most scintillating of cities, we have enjoyed traveling around to many exciting sites in Turkey: Istanbul, Ka?, Safranbolu, and numerous daytrips in Anatolia. Next up is a trip to Ephesus and Selçuk, which I hope to report back on when we return.
I’ve left MissAdventures.com fallow for such a long time that it will be hard to get up and running again. Bear with me. But hopefully having taken a break from this site for a while will have provided more ideas to grow.
One thing that I’d like to do is to take this blog into a slightly new direction: less about me and more about travel ideas to Turkey, India, or wherever I may be next! In other words, less about the “Miss” (or, now, “Mrs.”) and more about the Adventures. I’ve had fun and good feedback on Italofile, so I’d like to extend the creativity and expand the postings on MissAdventures as well.
Thanks a lot for your understanding and patience.
My staple during this hot Turkish summer has been kisir, what some call Turkish Tabbouleh. It’s not really a salad, but it makes the perfect cold side for stuffed peppers or karniyarik (another Turkish dish I’m making a lot lately).
I learned this recipe from my maid, but you can also find a perfectly good version in Claudia Roden’s Arabesque. Her book shows kisir served in traditionally in lettuce leaves, but you can easily leave it in a bowl if you feel like skipping the presentation. Read more
There are a ton of books, both fiction and non-fiction, about Turkey and the Middle East. While most of them are useful in learning about the region’s history and culture, few hold my interest for more than a couple pages. That’s not the case for the following three books, which I am reading or have skimmed heavily (and plan to read when I get around to it).
Birds Without Wings. This novel, by the author of Corelli’s Mandolin, is set in Turkey during the population exchange. It gives a good overview of Greek/Turkish relations and also has a moving personal story.
The Root of Wild Madder: Chasing the History, Mystery, and Lore of the Persian Carpet. Part of the dance that is a visit to Turkey and the Middle East is the browsing (and possibly purchasing) of carpets. You sit, drink tea, and let carpet sellers unfurl dozens of colorful rugs in front of you. This book, which focuses more on Iran, the home of the Persian carpet, is a good primer on the history and production of carpets in general. I’ve yet to find a similar book that is specific to Turkey. Another book I like in this category is Tribal and Village Rugs: The Definitive Guide to Design, Pattern & Motif.
From the Holy Mountain. William Dalrymple has penned many excellent historical/travel books. This one’s subtitle is “A Journey in the Shadow of Byzantium,” and the author travels through parts of Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Israel, Jordan, and Egypt in search of the roots of Christianity. I am also keen to point out Mr. Dalrymple’s latest nonfiction work, The Last Mughal, which looks at the events that led up to the downfall of India’s last emperor, Bahadur Shah II. In case you didn’t know, the Mughals of India had roots in Turkey and the Middle East. So, in many ways, I feel like I’m following in Dalrymple’s footsteps…but perhaps in reverse.
As I come across more good reads about Turkey, I will add them to my Amazon store. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy these suggestions.